Black Dog Designs

2008-05-06T07:04:00.004+10:00

Black on Black

Wool: 100g x 3 *
Needles: 8mm (US11)

Gauge
3 sts and 5 rows per inch.

Finished measurements

Width [at hemline]: 26" [52" around]

Bust: 21" [42" around]

Length: 18"

Front and back [make 2]

CO 70 sts

K 18 rows in St st

Next row [RS] K3, SSK, K to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3

K 18 rows

Next row K3, SSK, K to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3

K 13 rows… piece should measure approx 30cm

Shape raglan armholes

With RS facing, bind off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows… 54 sts

Next row [RS] K2 K2tog, K to last 4 sts, K2togtbl, K2

Next row P

Rep last 2 rows 2 times more… 48 sts

Next row K2, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, K2togtbl, K2

Next row P

Next row K

Next row P

Rep last 4 rows 5 times more… 36 sts

Next row K2, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, K2togtbl, K2

Next row P… 34 sts

Bind off rem 34 sts using 9mm needles

Sleeves [make 2]

CO 30 sts

K 4 rows in St st

Next row Inc 1 st at ea end of this and every foll 10th row to 38 sts, then every foll 8th row to 42 sts

K 3 rows and then K an inc row… 44 sts

Cont straight until sleeves meas 40cm ending with a WS row

Shape raglan

Bind off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows… 32 sts

Next row [RS] K2, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, K2togtbl, K2

Next row P

Next row K

Next row P

Rep last 4 rows 4 times more… 22 sts

Next row K

Next row P

Next row K2, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, K2togtbl, K2… 20 sts

Next row P

Next row K

Next row P

Next row K

Next row P

Next row K2, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, K2togtbl, K2… 18 sts

Next row P

Next row K

Bind off rem 18 sts

* I used merino wool from my stash [purchased in France a few years ago], but the garment has since been test knitted using Cascade 220.

2008-02-19T18:58:00.006+11:00

A little bit of decadence

Yarn
Sophia 4-ply sock yarn by Posh Yarn in Raspberry – pure cashmere : 55g / 185m x 2

Needles
2.75mm (US 2) : set of 4 DPN. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Markers (m); tapestry needle

Gauge
15sts and 22 rnds = 5cm in stocking stitch worked in the rnd.

Stitch guide -- Twisted rib
All rnds: *K2 through the back loop (tbl), P2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Instructions
CO 60 sts and work 18 rnds of twisted rib pattern.
Cont in stocking st for 55 rnds or until desired length.

Heel
Divide heel and instep sts
Place 31 sts on holder for instep
Work heel flap on 29 sts
Row 1 K3, *Sl 1, K1 to last 4 sts, Sl 1, K3
Row 2 K3, P23, K3
Rep these two rows until flap measures approx 6.5cm

Turn heel
Work short rows to shape heel as folls:
Row 1 Sl 1, K16, K2tog tbl, K1, turn.
Row 2 Sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3 Sl 1, K to 1 st before gap formed on previous row, K2tog tbl, (1 st each side of gap), K1, turn.
Row 4 Sl 1, P to 1 st before gap formed on previous row, P2tog, (1 st each side of gap), P1, turn.
Rep rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked… 18 sts rem

Shape gussets
Pick up sts along selvedge edges of heel flap and rejoin for working in the rnd as folls:
Rnd 1 With needle 1, K18 heel sts then pick up and knit 16 sts along side of heel flap; with needle 2, K across 31 instep sts; with needle 3, pick up and knit 16 sts along other side of heel flap – 81 sts total; 25 sts each on needle 1 and 3; 31 instep sts on needle 2. Rnd begins at centre of heel.
Rnd 2 On needle 1, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; K across needle 2; on needle 3, K1, SSK, K to end – 2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 3 K
Rep rnds 2 and 3 until 60 sts rem.

Foot
Cont in St st until foot measures 6.5cm less than desired foot length.

Toe
Rnd 1: On needle 1, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; on needle 2, K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; on needle 3, K1, SSK, K to end – 4 sts dec’d.
Rnds 2 – 4 K
Rnd 5 Rep rnd 1
Rnds 6 and 7 K
Rnd 8 Rep rnd 1
Rnds 9 and 10 K
Rnd 11 Rep rnd 1
Rnd 12 K
Rnd 13 Rep rnd 1
Rnd 14 K
Rnd 15 Rep rnd 1
Rnd 16 K
Rep rnd 1 only until 12 sts rem

Finishing
Kitchener st to graft sts tog. Weave in ends. Block lightly.

2007-08-31T12:54:00.000+10:00

Soft enclosures

A quick, beautifully crafted item that is perfect for gifts or when you need instant gratification.
Choose butter-soft wools that drape and fold around the body : Fine, lightweight fabrics in interesting textures : Unexpected materials give interest to simple shapes : Neutrals teamed with red or olive tones work best – or keep it simple with graphic black and white.

Materials

▪ 1.5m main fabric

▪ co-ordinating fabric pieces
▪ matching thread
▪ brooch

Instructions

The instructions below do not allow for seam allowances. Please remember to add approx 1cm seams (or less) for each join. Please check the diagram for finished measurements and adjust accordingly.

1. Cut and machine stitch the co-ordinating cotton strips according to the measurements in the diagram below – ensure that they are approx 20cm wide after seam allowances.

2. Measure the main fabric and cut a strip that is 20cm wide and 95cm long (not including seams).

3. Machine stitch the strips and main fabric together. This is the front piece.

4. Measure the back fabric against the front piece (it should be 20cm wide approx 125cm long, not including seams).

5. With RS tog, pin both pieces all the way around, leaving a gap of approx 10cm [for turning]. Machine stitch both sides together [but not the gap], leaving a seam allowance of approx 1cm.

6. Press lightly, clip each corner diagonally and turn the scarf RS out through the gap.

7. Push out all 4 corners, slip stitch the gap closed and press lightly.

8. Gently drape around your neck and fasten with a modern – style brooch (or make your own here).

2007-06-05T21:14:00.000+10:00

Stella

You’ll need 6mm (US 10) needles and 8mm (US 11) needles; button; snap fastener; tapestry needle; thread

Yarn –700g wool (100g = 210y/192m), silk, cotton or any yarn that gives you the following tension over 1 inch of Stocking stitch:
Tension
6mm (US 10) needles – 1 inch: 5 sts and 5 rows
8mm (US 11) needles – 1 inch: 3 sts and 4 rows

Finished measurements
Length 70cm (27.5 in)
Width (across hem) 66cm (26in) – this is the widest part
Sleeve length 42 cm (16.5in)

Abbreviations
KFB an increase made by knitting into the front and back of the same st.

Back
Using 8mm (US 11) needles, CO 80 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.
Next row (RS) P
Next row K
Rep these two rows until piece meas approx 13 cm (19 k rows), ending with a P row facing.

Shape body
Next row P3, P2tog, P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3
Rep this row every 8 (or so) rows until 5 sts have been dec’d per side (10 total sts)… 70 sts

Change to smaller needles and cont in reverse stocking st for 12 rows.

Shape armholes
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next two rows… 62 sts
Dec 1 st at end of next 6 rows… 50 sts
Cont straight for 42 rows, ending with a P side facing.
Cast off all sts in K st

Front RS
Using 8mm needles, CO 50 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.
Next row P
Next row K
Rep these two rows until piece meas approx 13 cm (19 k rows) ending with a P row facing (as for the back).
Next row P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3.
Rep this row every 8 (or so) rows until 5 sts have been dec’d on ONLY ONE SIDE -- the side where your seam will be… 45 sts.
Cont until the front piece is equal with the back (approx 56 P rows) ending with a P row. Change to smaller needles. Cont in reverse st st for 4 – 5 more rows.
Next row P to last 5 sts, P2tog tbl, P3
Next row K
Begin neck shaping – start your button hole here (optional) – I used a button and snap fastener. Next row P2tog, P to end
Next row K
Rep these two rows 3 times more – or until you’ve worked 15 P rows (in total) from when you changed needles.

Begin shaping armhole AT THE SAME TIME as you’re shaping the v-neck.

Shape armholes
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next K row
Next row P2tog, P to end
Dec 1 st at beg of next 6 K rows…
Cont straight (dec ONLY at neck-line) for 16 more rows and then cont dec ONLY every 2nd row.
Cont in this manner for 56 rows from where you changed needles, ending with a P side facing.
Cast off rem sts in K st

Front LS
Using 8mm needles, CO 50 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.
Next row P
Next row K
Rep these two rows until piece meas approx 13 cm (19 k rows) ending with a P row facing (as for the back).
Next row P3, P2tog, P to end.
Rep this row every 8 (or so) RS rows until 5 sts have been dec on ONLY ONE SIDE -- the side where your seam will be… 45 sts.
Cont until the front piece is equal with the back (approx 56 P rows) ending with a P row. Change to smaller needles. Cont in reverse st st for 4 – 5 more rows.
Next row P3, P2tog, P to end.
Next row K

Begin neck shaping
Next row P to last 2 sts, P2tog
Next row K
Rep these two rows 3 times more – or until you’ve worked 15 P rows (in total) from when you changed needles.

Begin shaping armhole AT THE SAME TIME as you’re shaping the v-neck.

Shape armholes
CO 4 sts at beg of next P row, P to last 2 sts, P2tog.
Next row K
Dec 1 st at beg of next 6 P rows, P to last 2 sts, P2tog.
Cont straight (dec ONLY at neck-line) for 16 more rows and then cont dec ONLY every 2nd row.
Cont in this manner for 56 rows from where you changed needles, ending with a P side facing.
Cast off rem sts in K st

Sleeves (make 2)
Using smaller needles, CO 50 sts and work 1 row in K1, P1 rib.
Next row P
Next row K
Rep these two rows 5 more times (11 total rows) ending with a K row facing.
Inc row KFB, K to last st, KFB
Next row Beg with a K row, inc 1 st at ea end
Work 5 rows
Inc row
Work 5 rows
Inc row
Work 3 rows
Inc row
Work 2 rows
Inc row
Work 5 rows
Inc row
Work 3 rows
Inc row
Work 5 rows
Inc row
Work 2 rows
Inc row
Work 5 rows… 68 sts
Inc row
Work 3 rows
Inc row
Work 1 row
Inc row
Work 3 rows
Inc row
Work 2 rows… 76 sts

Shape top
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows… 76 sts
Cont straight for 6 rows.
Work 1 row, ending with a P row facing.
Cast off rem sts (in K)

Making up
Press all pieces very gently , on WS, using a warm iron over a cloth.
Join shoulder seams. Set in sleeves, join side and sleeve seams. Add button and snap fastener.

2007-02-24T15:17:00.000+11:00

Zakka pouch

Knitted base

You'll need: 50g Rowan 4ply cotton (2 strands held tog); set of 5mm (US 8) DPNs

Tension: approx 5sts/in

Using 5mm DPNs and holding 2 strands of yarn tog, CO 88 sts. Divide evenly on 4 needles and join for knitting in the round.

Rnd 1: K
Rep rnd 1 until piece measures approx 6cm.

Next rnd: *K2, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 84 sts rem.

Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14: K

Rnd 3: *K3, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 80 sts rem

Rnd 5: *K4, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 76 sts rem

Rnd 7: *K5, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 72 sts rem

Rnd 9: *K6, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 68 sts rem

Rnd 11: *K7, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 64 sts rem

Rnd 13: *K8, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 60 sts rem

Rnd 15: *K9, P1, K to last 2 sts on needle, P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 56 sts rem

Rnd 16: *K to last 2 sts on needle; P2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles - 52 sts rem

Rep rnd 16 until 12 sts rem (3 sts per needle). Break yarn, leaving an 8" (20.5cm) tail. Thread tail through rem sts, pull tight and fasten off on the WS. Weave in ends.

Body

You'll need: main fabric and lining; drawcord (ribbon, braid etc); tapestry needle and thread

1. Measure the circumference of the base and cut main fabric and lining accordingly (allow 1.5cm seam allowance). Use contrasting fabric for pockets and sew onto the lining.

2. Place main fabric and lining with RS facing each other and machine sew all the way around, leaving a 5cm gap at both top corners (for the drawcord) and a 15cm gap at one of the bottom corners.

Tip: Cut fabric with pinking shears to avoid over-locking the sides or fiddling with French seams.

3. Push/flip through the larger opening so that the RS is now facing you. Use a knitting needle to push the corner out and hand stitch closed. Do not stitch the 2 x 5cm gaps at the top.

4. Draw cord tube: Machine sew approx 4cm down from the top (from one gap to the other).

5. Iron the fabric before attaching it to the knitted base.

6. Hand stitch the fabric onto the knitted base, bringing both sides around to form a circle. Join. Hand or machine stitch closed.

7. Measure and cut drawcord/ribbon (ensure you have enough length to tie). Fasten a safety pin onto one side of the ribbon and push through the tube.

:: An alternative to the knitted base is a basket:

Body

Repeat steps 1 - 5 (above)

6. Before affixing the fabric onto the basket, try and pin it into place (as best as you can). Thread a tapestry needle with 3 strands of embroidery cotton and with RS facing you, sew the fabric onto a single ridge (weave) of the basket. Be careful not to snag/snap the cotton. Repeat approx 3 - 4 times for each stitch, threading the needle between the main fabric and lining to the next ridge, until you've sewn all the way around the basket. Join both sides together and hand stitch the seam closed.

7. As for knitted base (above).

Black Dog Knits

2007-01-20T06:04:00.000+11:00

Zakka Sac

:: Zakka are small, general products used in everyday life. The term zakka has also come to represent a minimalist style of art and craft – items that are simple, charming and of Japanese aesthetic.

:: There are many alternatives to making a drawstring pouch. For me, this is the quickest method (less than 1 hr - including the knitting) and I like how it uses the lining as a contrast.

:: If the bag is finished neatly (no exposed seams, hanging threads etc), it’s reversible!

You’ll need:

yarn
fabric and lining
draw cord – ribbon, braid etc
matching thread
knitting needles
tapestry needle
sewing machine or hand held hemmer

:: I used: Rowan Handknit DK cotton in red for the base and linen fabrics for the body.

Method
This will make a 16 cm wide sac:

1. Using 5mm knitting needles CO 30 sts and work in garter st until piece measures 12 cm. Bind off.
Using tapestry needle and matching yarn, fold piece in half and sew both sides. Iron lightly on WS.

2. Measure piece across the top and cut both fabrics in accordance with this size (don't forget your seam allowance - approx 2cm).
My knitted piece was 18cm across the top, therefore I cut 2 x W20cm fabric pieces.

3. Place main fabric and lining with RS facing each other and machine sew all around the square, leaving a 10cm gap at one of the bottom corners.

Tip: Cut fabric with pinking shears to avoid over-locking.

4. Push/flip through the opening so that the RS is now facing you. Use a knitting needle to push the corner out and hand stitch closed.

5. Drawcord section – you can use my method (below) or this alternative
I folded the top part of the pouch over so that it contrasts with the lining. Sew across but do NOT sew the edges as this is where you’ll thread your drawcord.

6. Iron the fabric before attaching to the knitted base.

7. Hand stitch or machine sew the fabric all the way around the knitted base. Join to form a tube and hand stitch closed.
8. Measure and cut drawcord/ribbon. Fasten a safety pin onto one side and push through the tube.

That's it!

Black Dog Knits

2006-11-27T22:35:00.000+11:00

Donyale

Beneath a garter st border, ribs of purl st separate eyelet cables to create a pretty lace sock.

A simple 4 row pattern repeat knit from the cuff down.

Eyelet cable socks free pattern here

2006-09-30T07:48:00.000+10:00

Jewel encrusted evening bag

Handbeaded from coloured stones and crystals sourced from all over the world.

Measurements: W 7.5in (19cm); L 9.5in (24cm)

Yarn recommendations: ribbon yarn, soy silk, rayon (yes, rayon - it's a bag)
Ribbon: silk chiffon, silk, satin, grosgrain
Beads: Crystals, fire glazed glass, diamontes, bugle and seed beads
Lace: pre-beaded guipure
Misc: Snap closure, D-rings

* knit in one piece and seam at the sides OR K in the round

Pattern
(K flat over an ODD number of sts):
Row 1 (RS) P1, *K1 tbl, P1; rep from * to end
Row 2 K
Rep these 2 rows until desired length

Pattern (in the round)

CO an EVEN no of sts and join
Rnd 1 *K1 tbk, P1*
Rnd 2 P
Rep these 2 rnds until desired length

Lace:

The lace (purchased at a bridal store) was pre-beaded with tiny black seed beads.
I added more by following the outline of the flowers and then 'filling in' said flowers with whatever beades I had at home.
I then attached it around the top and down one side of the bag using tiny hand sewn stitches.

Crochet top patt:

Once seamed, finish off with a single crochet egde. Work from right to left with the RS of the knitting facing you.

Insert hook into knitting, YO hook, pull loop of yarn through the knitting to the front, YO hook and pull it through the 1st loop.

*Insert hook into next st of knitting, YO hook, pull loop of yarn through the st, YO hook and pull through both loops on hook.

Rep from * to end of row.
Skip or add sts if necessary to keep the edge flat.

Handle:

The original handle was discarded and replaced by a ribbon threaded through the d-rings and secured by a knot.

I thought about a beaded handle but decided against it. Another option would be a chain or a string of large black pearls (think Chanel).

Black Dog Knits

2006-09-23T18:49:00.000+10:00

Flickering Flames Socks

Yarn my own hand-dyed (equivalent to Opal sock yarn)
Needles 2.5mm (US 1) DPNs or circs for magic loop

Abbreviations
KFB: K into the front and, keeping st on left needle, K into the back of the same st - (inc 1 st)

CO 60 sts
Facing K 5 rnds
Picot edge *K2tog, YO*
K 5 rnds
Attach facing Fold facing along picot edge to inside of sock and attach as follows:
Pick up the edge of the 1st CO st and K this tog with the 1st st on the needle. Cont in this manner, working the edge of the corresponding CO st tog with the st on the needle.

Next rnd K to last st, KFB... 61 sts

Leg

Flickering Flames patt:

Rnd 1 K1, *YO, K3, Sl 1, K2tog, PSSO, K3, YO, K1; rep from * to end
Rnd 2 K
Rep the last 2 rnds 3 times more
Rnd 9 K2tog, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, *Sl 1, K2tog, PSSO, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3; rep from 8 to last 2 sts, Sl 1, K1, PSSO
Rnd 10 K
Rep the last 2 rnds 3 times more

Rep these 16 rnds to desired length, ending with a Rnd 1.

Divide for heel... 30 sts and 31 instep sts

Row 1 *Sl 1, K1*

Row 2 Sl 1, P29

Rep these 2 rows until desired heel flap length (approx 6.5cm)

Turn heel

Row 1 Sl 1, K16, SSK, K1, turn

Row 2 Sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn

Row 3 Sl 1, K to 1 st b4 gap, SSK, K1, turn

Row 4 Sl 1, P to 1 st b4 gap, P2tog, P1, turn

Rep last 2 rows until all sts have been worked

Gusset

Pick up and K 15 gusset sts per side (K across 31 instep sts)

Next rnd Needle 1: K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; Needle 2: cont in est patt; Needle 3: K1, SSK, K to end

Next rnd K

Rep these 2 rnds until 60 sts rem

Cont without dec until 5cm less than desired foot length, ending with a rnd 1 or rnd 9 of patt.

Toe

Rnd 1 Needle 1: K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; Needle 2: K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; Needle 3: K1, SSK, K to end

Rnds 2 - 4 K

Rnd 5 rep rnd 1... 52 sts

Rnds 6 and 7 K

Rnd 8 rep rnd 1... 48 sts

Rnds 9 and 10 K

Rnd 11 rep rnd 1... 44 sts

Rnd 12 K

Rnd 13 rep rnd 1... 40 sts

Rnd 14 K

Rnd 15 rep rnd 1... 36 sts

Rnd 16 K

Rep rnd 1 only until 12 sts rem

Graft toe st tog.

* Please note: Pattern is in multiples of 10 plus 1 and is a 16 row rep. For flat knitting, row 1 is the RS; P row 2 and all subsequent even numbered rows.

more designs at Black Dog Knits

2006-09-01T23:36:00.000+10:00

Illusions

I love cables, I really do - what I don't like is the bulk, the way they pop up and whatever you do, they just won't sit flat!
Maybe that's the idea though, maybe cables aren't into the 'flat look'. But I am, especially when it comes to my knitted items:
I do not need extra bulk!
So last winter I came across this neat, flat cable: an illusion - a cable that isn't really a cable. I loved it and when it came time to knit up my beautiful cashmere yarn, I didn't hesitate to include a couple (or 3) in the design.

* approx W 25cm/10" (using 5ply and 4mm ndls) unblocked

Abbreviations
SKPO Sl 1 st as if to k, k the next st, pass the slipped st over the k st

P2tog tbl purl 2 sts together through the back loops

Pattern

Row 1 P2, YO, K3, SKPO, K9, P2
Row 2 K2, P8, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P1, K2
Row 3 P2, K2, YO, K3, SKPO, K7, P2
Row 4 K2, P6, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P3, K2
Row 5 P2, K4, YO, K3, SKPO, K5, P2
Row 6 K2, P4, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P5, K2
Row 7 P2, K6, YO, K3, SKPO, K3, P2
Row 8 K2, P2, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P7, K2
Row 9 P2, K8, YO, K3, SKPO, K1, P2
Row 10 K2, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P9, K2

These 10 rows form the patt rep

Scarf

CO 62 sts and K 4 rows

Row 1 (RS) K4, *P2, YO, K3, SKPO, K9, P2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 2 K4, *K2, P8, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P1, K2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 3 K4, *P2, K2, YO, K3, SKPO, K7, P2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 4 K4, *K2, P6, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P3, K2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 5 K4, *P2, K4, YO, K3, SKPO, K5, P2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 6 K4, *K2, P4, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P5, K2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 7 K4, *P2, K6, YO, K3, SKPO, K3, P2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 8 K4, *K2, P2, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P7, K2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 9 K4, *P2, K8, YO, K3, SKPO, K1, P2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Row 10 K4, *K2, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P9, K2 rep from * to last 4 sts, K4

Rep these 10 rows until desired length.

Next row K

Rep this row 3 times more. Cast off. Block lightly

Please note: The chart (below) depicts one cable ONLY - not the entire scarf pattern.

http://black-dog-knits.blogspot.com

2006-08-13T08:59:00.000+10:00

Alpaca Cable Socks

Yarn
Jo Sharp Alpaca Silk Georgette 50g x 2 col:750
Needles
* 3mm DPNs; sml cable ndle (cn)

* recommended ndle size is 3.25mm;
gauge = 25sts/33rows over 10cm in St st.
I absentmindedly picked up a 3mm circ and by the time I realised it was too late!

My tension 6.5 sts and 10 rows = 1" (St st in the rnd)

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
C4F (produces a cable that crosses to the left)
Work to beg of cable, sl 2 sts onto cn and leave at front of work. Working behind cn, K the next 2 sts from LH ndle, then the 2 sts from cn.

* Important: ensure the cable panel is facing in opposite directions - RH side for right sock and LH side for left sock. You'll need to sort this out when you divide the instep and heel flap sts.
* Directions are for both socks unless stated otherwise.
* Cable stops at the leg before heel (does not cont onto foot)

Twisted rib
P1, *K1 tbl, P1*

Socks
CO 56 sts and work in twisted rib for 10 rnds.

Leg
Rnd 1 K24, P2, K4, P2, K24
Rnd 2 rep rnd 1
Rnd 3 K24, P2, C4F, P2, K24
Rnd 4 rep rnd 1
Rep these 4 rnds 14 times for a total of 56 rnds (you can adjust length here)

Right sock only - divide for heel (cable will be on right hand side)
K 24, turn and P across 28 heel sts. Place rem 28 sts on holder.

Left sock only - divide for heel (cable will be on left hand side)
K 4, turn and P across 28 heel sts. Place rem 28 sts on holder.

Heel flap
Work back and forth on 28 sts as folls:
Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back, K to end
Row 2 Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P to end
Rep rows 1 and 2 until heel flap meas 6cm (or desired length)

Turn heel
Row 1 (RS) K16, SSK, K1, turn
Row 2 Sl 1 purlwise, P5, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 3 Sl 1 purlwise, K to 1 st before gap, SSK, K1, turn
Row 4 Sl 1 purlwise, P to 1 st before gap, P2tog, P1, turn
Rep rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked ending with a WS row and ending P2tog... 16 sts rem

Heel gusset
K across all heel sts and with same needle (N1) pick up 14 sts along heel flap selvedge. With another DPN (N2) K across instep sts. With a 3rd DPN (N3) pick up 14 sts along other side of heel and K across half of heel sts... 72 sts.
Rnd now begins at centre of back heel.

Rnd 1 N1 K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; N2 K; N3 K1, SSK, K to end
Rnd 2 K
Rep rnds 1 and 2 until 56 sts rem

Foot
K in rounds until piece meas 5cm less than desired length

Toe
I find the foll method produces a rounder toe than decreasing every alternate row (you can substitute your own toe method here)
Rnd 1 N1 K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1; N2 K1, SSK, K to last
3 sts, K2tog, K1; N3 K1, SSK, K to end
Rnds 2 - 4 K
Rnd 5 rep rnd 1
Rnds 6 and 7 K
Rnd 8 rep rnd 1
Rnds 9 and 10 K
Rnd 11 rep rnd 1
Rnd 12 K
Rnd 13 rep rnd 1
Rnd 14 K
Rnd 15 rep rnd 1
Rnd 16 K
Rep rnd 1 only until 10 sts rem

Finishing Graft toe sts tog and weave in ends. Steam lightly to block.

more pictures/info at http://black-dog-knits.blogspot.com

2006-08-10T15:40:00.001+10:00

Noro Silk Garden Scarf

Yarn: Noro Silk Garden col:84

Cast on a multiple of 11 sts plus 5 (e.g 60)

Row 1 (RS) *[K1, P1] 3 times; rep from * to end

Row 2 *[P1, K1], 3 times; rep from * to end

Rep these 2 rows 8 times

Row 9 (RS) [K1, P1] 3 times, K to last 6 sts, [K1, P1] 3 times

Row 10 [P1, K1] 3 times, P to last 6 sts, [P1, K1] 3 times

Rep rows 9 and 10 until desired length, then rep the 1st 2 rows 8 more times

Bind Off

http://black-dog-knits.blogspot.com

2006-08-04T09:59:00.000+10:00

Cami Options

For a casual look, use a multi-coloured yarn.

I made mine with Noro Lily Multi col:121 - a combination of cotton and silk - purchased here and wore it all summer long!

Yarn: silk, cotton or a combination of both. Linen could also work.

Colour & beads: Make it in an 'old rose' colour (think:vintage) with creme boarders and straps or crisp white cotton (or linen) for a casual day look. Use pearls instead of crystal beads: round pearls with a pearl drop centre. For stunning straps, thread vintage pearl and crystal beads onto heavy-duty cotton or fishing line. For a dramatic evening look use black or navy silk with black and clear crystal beads and black pearls for straps.

You're all creative people... the possibilities are endless!

2006-08-03T07:31:00.001+10:00

Beaded Cami

I designed this cami to wear with a beaded skirt, but it looks just as good with jeans and strappy sandals.

:: Cami is flared (A-line)

:: For a seamless version, knit it in the round.

To adapt pattern from straight needles to circulars, work the RS rows as written, but reverse the WS rows by reading from R to L and working the opposite sts.

Eg: for straight knitting the patt reads:
Row 2 (WS): P3, *P7, P2tog tbl, P2, YO, K1, YO, P2, P2tog, P7; rep from * to last 3 sts, P3.

For circular knitting the row should read:
Row 2 (WS): K3, *K7, K2tog, K2, YO, P1, YO, K2, SSK, K7; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3

Materials
Yarn: Jo Sharp Summer DK Cotton Col:225 x 5 balls; 50g . 100m (109y) per ball
Ndls: 4mm (US 6)

Tension 6 sts and 7 rows = 1"

Measurements
Bodice (top) 17" across
Centre 20" across
Bottom (hem) 21" across
Length approx 18"

Cami: front

CO 121 sts – 115 sts will form 5 patt reps with 3 extra sts per side (23 sts = 1 patt rep)

K 2 rows

Row 1 (RS) K3, *K8, K2tog, YO, K1, P1, K1, YO, SSK, K8; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3.
Row 2 P3, *P7, P2tog tbl, P2, YO, K1, YO, P2, P2tog, P7; rep from * to last 3 sts, P3.
Row 3 K3, *K6, K2tog, K1, YO, K2, P1, K2, YO, K1, SSK, K6; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3.
Row 4 P3, *P5, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P1, K1, P1, YO, P3, P2tog, P5; rep from * to last 3 sts, P3.
Row 5 K3, *K4, K2tog, K2, YO, K3, P1, K3, YO, K2, SSK, K4; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3.
Row 6 P3, *P3, P2tog tbl, P4, YO, P2, K1, P2, YO, P4, P2tog, P3; rep from * to last 3 sts, P3.
Row 7 K3, *K2, K2tog, K3, YO, K4, P1, K4, YO, K3, SSK, K2; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3.
Row 8 P3, *P1, P2tog tbl, P5, YO, P3, K1, P3, YO, P5, P2tog, P1; rep from * to last 3 sts, P3.
Row 9 K3, * K2tog, K4, YO, K5, P1, K5, YO, K4, SSK* rep from * to last 3 sts, K3.
Row 10 P3, *P11, K1, P11; rep from * to last 3 sts, P3.
Row 11 K3, *K11, P1, K11; rep from * to last 3 sts, K3.
Row 12 Rep row 10.

Rep rows 1 – 12

Shape body: front

Row 1 (RS) K3, SSK, K to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3
Rep this 1st row every 5 rows until 13 sts in total dec on each side… 95 sts on ndle.
Dec 1 more st on whichever side you prefer… 94 sts rem.
Work straight for 4 rows (lengthen here if req'd). Bind off.

There should be approx 60 rows bet the end of the 2nd patt rep (hem) and the BO at the top (bodice) before you add the top lace.

Front bodice – this part will form the top bodice - 94 sts: 4 patt reps and 2 sts (1 per side).

K 2 rows.
Row 1 (RS) K1, *K8, K2tog, YO, K1, P1, K1, YO, SSK, K8; rep from * to last 3 sts, K1.
Row 2 P1, *P7, P2tog tbl, P2, YO, K1, YO, P2, P2tog, P7; rep from * to last 3 sts, P1.
Row 3 K1, *K6, K2tog, K1, YO, K2, P1, K2, YO, K1, SSK, K6; rep from * to last 3 sts, K1.
Row 4 P1, *P5, P2tog tbl, P3, YO, P1, K1, P1, YO, P3, P2tog, P5; rep from * to last 3 sts, P1.
Row 5 K1, *K4, K2tog, K2, YO, K3, P1, K3, YO, K2, SSK, K4; rep from * to last 3 sts, K1.
Row 6 P1, *P3, P2tog tbl, P4, YO, P2, K1, P2, YO, P4, P2tog, P3; rep from * to last 3 sts, P1.
Row 7 K1, *K2, K2tog, K3, YO, K4, P1, K4, YO, K3, SSK, K2; rep from * to last 3 sts, K1.
Row 8 P1, *P1, P2tog tbl, P5, YO, P3, K1, P3, YO, P5, P2tog, P1; rep from * to last 3 sts, P1.
Row 9 K1, * K2tog, K4, YO, K5, P1, K5, YO, K4, SSK* rep from * to last 3 sts, K1.
Row 10 P1, *P11, K1, P11; rep from * to last 3 sts, P1.
Row 11 K1, *K11, P1, K11; rep from * to last 3 sts, K1.
Row 12 Rep row 10.
Row 13 K
Row 14 P

Bind off and join (sew) to lower front section.

Cami: back Work in est patt (as for front)

Shape body: back
Row 1 (RS) K3, SSK, K to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3

Rep this 1st row every 4 - 5 (RS) rows until 13 sts dec on each side… 95 sts on ndle

Approx dec rows as folls: 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49

Work straight for 18 rows. Bind off. Weave in ends. Block.

Note: the back features patt only at bottom – the top ends in St st bind-off.
If you prefer, (or if the p2tog tbl is driving you insane) you may apply this concept to the front - just add the same number of rows as for the back and bind off in St st. Alternatively, you may do a plain rib bottom and apply the design to the front bodice only.

Straps
Crochet 2 chain st straps and sew. I had a seamstress run me up two pure silk 'spaghetti' straps. I also made a casual, multi coloured version and used the crochet straps mentioned above.

:: click here for more options

:: http://black-dog-knits.blogspot.com

2006-08-02T13:12:00.000+10:00

Lorna's Laces One Hank Socks

ONE HANK of Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock. For contrasting cuff and heel: use leftovers from your stash.

Yarn A LLs Shepherd Sock: Iris Garden x 1
Yarn B Opal Uni Solids col:15 (small amount from your stash)
Ndls 3mm (US3)

Tension 7.5 sts and 10 rows = 1" (St st in the rnd)

* leg length (from top of picot edge to top of heel) = 14.5cm

Abbreviations
PM: place marker
TBL: through the back loop

Socks
Using yarn B, CO 60 sts.
K 5 rnds.
Break yarn. Join in yarn A.
K 1 rnd.
PM.

Picot edge
Rnd 1 *K2tog, YO*
K 6 rnds
Fold and attach facing by picking up the edge of the 1st CO st and K tog with the 1st st on the ndle. Alternatively, use the CO tail yarn to sew in place.

K the next 48 rnds.
Break yarn A.
Join in yarn B.

Heel… 30 sts
Row 1 *Sl 1, K1*
Row 2 Sl 1, P29
Rep these 2 rnds until heel meas 6cm
(approx 22 rows) ending with a RS row facing.

Turn heel... round French heel
Row 1 Sl 1, K16, K2tog tbl, K1, turn
Row 2 Sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 3 Sl 1, K6, K2tog tbl, K1, turn
Row 4 Sl 1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 5 Sl 1, K8, K2tog tbl, K1, turn
Cont working 1 more st until all sts have been worked.
Next row Sl 1, K across

Pick up 15 sts along selvedge heel flap, K across 30 sts, pick up 15 sts along other side of heel, K across half of the heel sts.
K 1 rnd.
Break yarn.
Join in yarn A.

Foot
Rnd 1 N1 K to last 3 sts, K 2tog K1; N2 K; N3 K1, SSK, K to end.
Rnd 2 K
Rep rnds 1 and 2 until 60 sts rem.
Cont without dec to toe.

Star toe
On the assumption that you're working with 4 DPNs and 1 working needle, proceed as folls:

Rnd 1 * K2, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *
Rnd 2 K
Rnd 3 * K3, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *
Rnd 4 K
Rnd 5 * K4, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *
Rnd 6 K
Rnd 7 * K5, P1, k to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *
Rnd 8 K
Rnd 9 * K6, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *
Rnd 10 K
Rnd 11 * K7, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *
Rnd 12 K
Rnd 13 * K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *
Rep last rnd 7 more times or until 8 sts rem.

Finishing
Break yarn leaving a 21cm tail. Thread tail through rem sts, pull tight and fasten off.
Weave in ends. Steam block lightly.

Black Dog Knits

2006-07-16T21:03:00.000+10:00

Coming soon...

Chocolate beaded cami in cool cotton.
Team it with jeans and sandals for a sexy day look or a beaded skirt and high strappy heels for night.

2006-07-15T08:10:00.000+10:00

Ink Flared Sweater

Women's Small
Bust 31 - 35in (80 - 90cm)

Medium
Bust 35 - 39in (90 - 100cm)

Large
Bust 39 - 43in (100 - 110cm)

Finished measurements
Bust 19 (20, 21)in; 48.5 (51, 53.5)cm :: one piece only
Width (at hem) 22.5 (23.5, 24.5)in; 57 (60, 62)cm :: one piece only
Length 26.5 (26.5, 27)in; 67.5 (67.5, 68.5)cm
Sleeve length (from underarm) 17.5 (17.5, 18)in; 45 (45, 46)cm

Yarn Noro Cash Iroha 40g (91m) x 8 (8,9) hanks; col: 86; 40% silk, 30% lambswool, 20% cashmere and 10% nylon

Needles 1 pair 6mm (US 10)

Notions 2 st markers, 4mm crochet hook, tapestry needle and thread to match yarn

Gauge 16 sts and 20 rows to 4" (10cm) over stocking stusing 6mm (US 10) needles

Abbreviations
K2tog knit 2 stitches together
TBL through the back loop
SSK slip next 2 stitches as if to knit, return to left needle and knit together tbl (or use your preferred left-leaning decrease).
P2tog purl two stitches together
PM place marker
SM slip marker

Special construction notes
Simple decreases are used to form an a-line (flared) shape. The front and back are knit in two pieces and feature seed st selvages for easier sewing.
After sewing and blocking, a single crochet edge is worked around the hem and neckline

Single crochet
Work from R to L with RS facing. Insert hook into knitting, yarn over hook, pull loop of yarn through the knitting to the front, yarn over hook and pull it through the first loop.
*Insert hook into next st of knitting, yarn over hook, pull loop of yarn through the st, yarn over hook and pull through both loops on hook.
Rep from * to end of row.
Skip or add sts if necessary to keep edge flat.

Double seed st selvage patt:
On every row: K1, p1 at beg of row; p1, k1 at end of row. * PM after the first 2 sts and before the last 2 sts.

Row 1 (RS) K1, p1, sm, k to last 2 sts, sm, p1, k1.
Row 2 K1, p1, sm, p to last 2 sts, sm, p1, k1.
These 2 rows form double seed st selvage patt.

Using 6mm ndles CO 90 (94, 98) sts and work 10 rows in established patt (above) starting with a K (RS) row.

Shape body - dec a total of 7 sts per side.
Row 11 (RS) K1, p1, sm, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, p1, k1.
Work 9 rows in est patt.
Row 21 (RS) Rep row 11.
Work 9 rows in est patt.
Row 31 (RS) Rep row 11.
Work 9 rows in est patt.
Row 41 (RS) Rep row 11.
Work 9 rows in est patt.
Row 51 (RS) Rep row 11.
Work 9 rows in est patt.
Row 61 (RS) Rep row 11.
Work 9 rows in est patt.
Row 71 (RS) Rep row 11... 76 (80, 84) sts.

Cont straight in est patt until work meas 42 (42, 43)cm, ending with a RS row facing.

Shape raglan armholes
CO 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows... 64 (68, 72) sts.

Next row (RS) P2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, K2tog tbl, p2.
Next row K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep last 2 rows 4 times more... 54 (58, 62) sts.

Next row (RS) P2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, p2.
Next row K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Next row P2, k to last 2 sts, p2.
Next row K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep last 4 rows 6 times more... 40 (44, 48) sts.

Next row (RS) P2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, p2.
Next row K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep last 2 rows once more... 36 (40, 44) sts.

Cast off rem 36 (40, 44) sts.

Sleeves (make 2)

CO 35 (37, 39) sts and K two rows. Change to St st and work 8 rows.
Cont in St st, shaping sides by inc 1 st at each end of next and every foll 10th row to 45 (47, 49) sts, then on every foll 8th row... 55 (57, 59) sts.
Cont straight until sleeve meas 45 (45, 46)cm, ending with a RS row facing.

Shape raglan
CO 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows... 43 (45, 47) sts.

Row 1 (RS) P2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, p2... 41 (43,45) sts.
Row 2 K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 3 P2, k to last 2 sts, p2
Row 4 K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep these 4 rows 4 times more... 33 (35, 37) sts.

Row 21 (RS) P2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, p2... 31 (33, 35) sts
Row 22 K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep last 2 rows 11 times more... 11 (13, 15) sts.

Cast off rem 11 (13, 15) sts.

Finishing

Block all pieces or press gently on WS using warm iron over damp cloth. Join front and back pieces at sides. Centre sleeves and join to main body and shoulders. Press seams lightly.
Work a single crochet row at hem and neckline. Press as before.

Black Dog Knits

2006-07-01T15:01:00.000+10:00

Knee-High Socks

This patt stipulates up to and including the calf decreases (leaving you free to cont with your favourite heel, foot and toe method).

MATERIALS
100g Opal DreamCatcher col:1237;
knitting elastic; 3mm circs or DPNs (US3)

Tension 7.5 sts and 9 rows = 1" (St st in the rnd)

Socks
CO 64 sts.
With elastic and yarn held tog, work 25 rnds in K1, P1 Rib.
Drop the elastic, change to St st and work 30 rnds.

Calf decs - on the assumption that you're using DPNs, cont as folls: (I place st markers on my 12" circ):

Rnd 56 N1: K1, K2tog, K to end; N2: K; N3: K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1… 62 sts rem
K 6 rnds

Rnd 63 Rep rnd 56… 60 sts
K 3 rnds

Rnd 67 Rep rnd 56... 58 sts
K 6 rnds

Rnd 74 Rep rnd 56... 56 sts
K 3 rnds

Rnd 78 Rep rnd 56… 54 sts
K 6 rnds

Rnd 85: Rep rnd 56... 52 sts

Cont without dec to heel - approx 28 more rnds (you can adjust the length here).

Use your favourite sock pattern from here on in.

designed by http://black-dog-knits.blogspot.com

2006-07-01T14:27:00.000+10:00

Picot Eyelet Socks

Yarn Regia Havanna col:4198 100g; Ribbon to thread through eyelets
Ndls 3mm DPNs (US 3)

Measurements are for an average size with a foot length of 24cm (9.5in)
Tension 7 sts and 10 rows = 1" (St st in the rnd)

SOCKS

Using 3mm ndles, CO 60 sts and join.

Facing K 6 rnds

Picot edge *K2tog, yo; rep from * to end of rnd.

K 6 rnds… 13 rnds.

Attach facing Fold facing along picot edge to inside of sock and attach as folls: Pick up the edge of the first CO st and knit this tog with the first st on the ndle. Cont to end of rnd.

Next rnd P

Eyelet rnd *YO, k2tog; rep from * to end

Next rnd P

K in rnds until work meas a total of 24cm (adjust length here if desired).

Heel... 30sts

Row 1 (RS) *Sl 1, K1*

Row 2 Sl 1, P29

Rep these 2 rnds until heel meas 6cm ending with with RS row facing

Turn heel

Row 1 (RS) Sl 1, K16, K2tog tbl, K1, turn

Row 2 Sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn

Row 3 Sl 1, K6, K2tog tbl, K1, turn

Row 4 Sl 1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn

Row 5 Sl 1, K8, K2tog tbl, K1, turn

Cont working 1 more st until all sts have been worked.

Next row Sl 1, K across

Pick up 15 gusset sts per side

Foot

Rnd 1 N1 K to last 3 sts, K 2tog K1; N2 K; N3 K1, SSK, K to end

Rnd 2 K

Rep rnds 1 and 2 until 60 sts rem

Cont without dec to toe

Star toe

Rnd 1 * K2, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *

Rnd 2 K

Rnd 3 * K3, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *

Rnd 4 K

Rnd 5 * K4, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *

Rnd 6 K

Rnd 7 * K5, P1, k to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *

Rnd 8 K

Rnd 9 * K6, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *

Rnd 10 K

Rnd 11 * K7, P1, K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *

Rnd 12 K

Rnd 13 * K to last 2 sts on ndle, P2tog *

Rep last rnd until 8 sts rem

Finishing Break yarn leaving a 21cm tail. Thread tail through rem sts, pull tight and fasten off. Weave in ends. Steam block lightly.

more pictures/info at http://black-dog-knits.blogspot.com